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ReadyRepair
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ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING
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| ELECTRIC START ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK |
- Battery connections are loose.
- Battery charge low or discharged.
- Battery amperage low.
- Starting leads reversed.
- Fuse blown in wiring harness.
- Key switch wired wrong.
- Safety switch malfunction
- Wiring harness wired wrong.
- Starting cable connectors loose.
- Connectors corroded or worn.
- Starter/Solenoid malfunctioning.
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- Electric clutch air gap wrong.
- Drive pulley tightened against engine PTO face.
- Drive belt wedged on idler pulley.
- Drive belt tension adjusted too tight.
- Combustion chamber flooded with oil/gas.
- No oil in crankcase causing seized engine..
- Drive shaft coupling forcing engine shaft against internal thrust face eliminating crankshaft end play.
- Transmission brakes too tight.
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| CRANKS – BUT DOES NOT START |
- Fuel tank empty.
- Fuel hose kinked, pinched.
- Fuel filter clogged.
- Fuel valve shut off
- Fuel solenoid inoperative.
- LPG Regulator not opening.
- Water in fuel, stale fuel.
- Wrong fuel (Diesel).
- Throttle control in stop position.
- Choke not fully closed.
- Choke on, flooding hot engine.
- Power take-off clutch stuck on “on”.
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- Safety interlocks inoperative.
- Spark plug wire disconnected.
- Spark plug improperly gapped.
- Wrong type of spark plug.
- Wiring harness not connected.
- Wiring broken, loose or wrong.
- Transmission not in neutral.
- Electrical clutch not adjusted.
- Cranking speed too slow to start.
- Spark plug loose.
- Low or no compression.
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| RUNS ROUGH & WILL NOT ACCELERATE |
- Spark plug gap incorrect.
- Engine not properly warmed up.
- Running out of fuel.
- Low idle set too low
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- Low idle fuel setting too lean.
- Electric clutch dragging.
- Load on drive shafts.
- Crankshaft end play zeroed drive.
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| BACKFIRES |
- Water contaminated fuel.
- Running out of fuel.
- Fuel mixture too rich or too lean.
- Carburetor fuel solenoid shorting.
- Throttle or choke improperly set.
- Dirty carburetor needs cleaning.
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- Kill switch contacting intermittently.
- Key switch malfunctioning.
- Safety interlock(s) malfunctioning.
- Faulty fuse in unit control box.
- Leaking, worn valves in engines.
- Shear pin partially cut affecting timing
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| ELECTRIC SYSTEM PROBLEMS |
Charges and gradually discharges
- Improper ground causing battery to lose charge when accessories activated.
- Faulty battery will not hold charge.
Will not charge
- Regulator-Rectifier failed.
- Regulator-Rectifier not grounded.
- Flywheel magnet not charged.
- Fuse blown or circuit breaker open.
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Blowing fuses
- Regulator-Rectifier burned out.
- Leads pinched causing shorting.
- Alternator stator shorted.
Electric clutch will not engage
- Wrong Regulator-Rectifier used.
- Wiring wrong or not grounded.
Engine runs on when switched off
- Ignition grounding terminal or ground lead not connected at ignition module.
- Faulty switch.
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| STOPS WHILE ON HIGH IDLE |
- Running out of fuel.
- Running out of oil in crankcase.
- Carburetor solenoid malfunctioning.
- Key switch malfunctioning.
- Safety interlocks malfunctioning.
- Spark plug lead loose.
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- Fuse blown in control box.
- Carburetor out of adjustment.
- LPG Regulator malfunctioning.
- Loss of vacuum to LPG Regulator.
- Tight drive belt causing crankshaft bearing to seize.
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| WON’T RESTART WHEN HOT |
- Overheated - Clogged in cooling fins.
- Overheated - Blocked shrouding.
- Closed choke flooding engine.
- Throttle not in midway position.
- Throttle left in stop position.
- Carburetor solenoid malfunctioning.
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- Fouled spark plug.
- Kill lead shoring out.
- Ran out of fuel.
- Lost compression.
- LPG Regulator not functioning.
- Vacuum too low to open LPG Regulator.
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| CANNOT REACH HIGH SPEED |
- Choke not completely opened.
- Throttle control cable clip loose.
- Throttle control improperly installed.
- Fuel filter or line clogged.
- Fuel running low.
- Fuel pump malfunctioning.
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- Foreign material in carburetor.
- Carburetor out of adjustment.
- Spark plug gapped wrong causing intermittent firing.
- Drive system binding up causing load on engine.
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Some Brands We Service
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